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Herm Walks - Extract from The Channel Islands Way
Starting at Herm Harbour
This is another walk which starts almost the moment we set foot on dry land. Once disembarked at Herm Harbour, follow the pier inland towards the triangle of grass ahead, and at the fork in the track bear right. Pass a track on the right and a short path on the left that goes to the building with the beehive-shaped roof. This was the island prison during the boom years of the quarrying industry when 200 men were living and working on Herm.
The islands over to the right are Jethou and Crevichon, both bear clear signs of quarrying. Here the path forks - keep right to continue beside the sea.
Before the track begins to descend to Rosaire Steps, the low water landing place, go left and climb the granite steps, following the sign: To the South Coast cliff paths.
Starting at Rosaire Steps
If you disembark at Rosaire Steps, walk through the impressive crenellated granite entrance to the island, created by Prince Gebhard Blucher who was the island's tenant between 1889 and 1915, climb the track and take the granite steps on the right.
Jethou
The larger of the two islands off Herm's south-western coastline, Jethou has its own colourful history. Until the tenancy of Lt Colonel Montague Joseph Feilden, it was possible to hold the lease on both Herm and Jethou. Lt Colonel Feilden was the tenant from 1867 to 1877, and he spent thousands of pounds improving the island. He was the first tenant to develop the island for tourism: he opened a hotel, built Belvoir House, and established the oyster beds at Oyster Point.
However, the source of his income was questionable, especially as he had a motley crew of Bretons and Welshmen living on Jethou, firing at any fishermen who came too close. The reason they were so unfriendly soon became apparent, when customs officials found four bales of tobacco weighing 200 lbs hidden on Jethou. A year or so later, 50 barrels of brandy were found in the beach house on Jethou, and a further 27 were discovered on one of Feilden's four boats moored between Herm and Jethou. He was found guilty of smuggling brandy between France and Dorset and, some months later, decided to sell the remainder of his lease. Following Feilden's escapades, the Guernsey government felt it unwise to lease the islands to the same person. This clause was enforced until Sir Compton Mackenzie, the famous author and tenant of Herm, moved from Herm to Jethou in 1923.
Today, Jethou is leased from the States of Guernsey by philanthropist and keen yachtsman Sir Peter Ogden. Unlike Herm, the island is not open to the public and is still owned by the Crown. Climb the steps, and before long we are on a level path with views over to the islands on the right. The path rises slightly, and, as we turn the south-west corner at Point Sauzebourge, a seascape of Sark and Brecqhou appears on the horizon.
The path descends and climbs; out to sea the tiny islands are home to flocks of sea birds. After a climb, we arrive at a T junction - here turn right and stay on the coastal path. At intervals beside the path are granite slabs - their resemblance to benches is not a coincidence, they are there as resting places for the weary.
The path diverts left around a deep fissure in the cliff side. Although the path goes very close, we are protected by a wooden barrier. This spot is known as Barbara's Leap. Surprisingly enough, Barbara is still remembered by people today as she 'leaped' in the early 1960s.
Our hotel (Ambassadeur) was very well situated and the accommodation and food were both good.
